Winter rain turns good trails into slop. E-motos handle mud well because there's no clutch to cook and no air intake to drown. Mud still punishes chains, brakes, bearings and electrical connectors, though, and a bike set up for dry hard-pack will spin and slide. Here's how we set a bike up before a muddy ride, how we ride it, and what we do afterward.
Before the ride: set the bike up
Tires
Tread matters more than anything else in mud. You want a soft-terrain or mud tire with tall, widely spaced knobs that clean themselves out as they spin. A hard-pack tire packs up with mud and loses all its grip.
- Dunlop MX34 Geomax Soft/Intermediate
- Tusk T35 Soft/Intermediate
- 16" wheels: Dunlop MX14 Geomax Sand/Mud
Many riders run slightly lower pressure in mud for a bigger footprint. Don't go so low that you risk pinch flats or rolling the tire on the rim. Stay within your manual's range, and consider a heavy-duty tube.
Chain and drivetrain
Start with a clean, lubed chain set to the slack your manual specifies. Mud adds drag and can pack around the sprockets. A chain that's too loose can jump the sprocket, and one that's too tight wears everything faster. Talaria Sting owners can add a DirtyBike chain guide kit to help keep the chain on.
Coverage and protection
- Fenders and mud guards keep slop off the rear shock and battery area. Options include the E-Ride Pro OEM Mud Flaps Kit, the DirtyBike Shock Protector for Sur-Ron LBX and the DirtyBike Shock Protector for Talaria Sting.
- A skid plate protects the underside from rocks hidden in the mud. Options include the TB E-Ride Pro, TB Sur-Ron Ultra Bee and GritShift Heavy Hitter Talaria skid plates.
- Anti-stick spray. A light coat of silicone spray on plastics and under the fenders helps mud wash off later. Keep it well away from brake rotors and pads.
Electrical check
Make sure the battery is latched and seated and the lid is closed properly. Check that connector boots are in place and exposed plugs aren't cracked. Dielectric grease on connector seals helps keep water out. Know your bike's water-resistance limits from the manual, and don't submerge the battery or controller.
Riding in mud
- Stand up, weight on the pegs. Let the bike move under you instead of fighting it through the bars.
- Use a lower power mode. Instant electric torque spins the rear tire easily. Eco or a mid mode with smooth throttle keeps you moving forward.
- Keep momentum. Pick a line, hold a steady pace and look ahead. Stopping in deep mud is how you get stuck.
- Brake early and gently. Use both brakes and lean on the rear more than usual. Grabbing the front on slick ground tucks it fast. Shift your weight back under braking.
- Ruts: Commit to one, keep your eyes up and stay loose. Fighting a rut puts you on the ground.
- Walk it first if you can't see the bottom of a puddle or bog. Deep water can reach the battery and controller.
Gear
Goggles with tear-offs or roll-offs are a must, because mud roost blinds you fast. Use gloves that still grip when wet, and wear boots that keep your feet dry.
After the ride
- Clean it the same day. Dried mud is harder to get off and holds moisture against metal. Scrape the heavy stuff off with a Tusk Moto Mud Remover, then rinse at low pressure. Never use a pressure washer on the battery, controller, connectors or bearings.
- Chain. Clean it with Maxima Clean Up, dry it, then re-lube with Maxima Chain Guard Wet Formula. If you do this a lot, the Maxima Chain Guard Care Kit covers it all.
- Brakes. Mud eats pads fast. Check pad thickness after every muddy ride, and see our brake pads collection for replacements.
- Bearings and pivots. Check the wheel bearings and swingarm pivots for grinding or play. Re-grease pivots with a waterproof grease after a lot of wet rides.
- Bolts. Check for anything that came loose, especially axle, sprocket and motor-mount bolts.
- Dry storage. Park it somewhere dry so leftover moisture doesn't sit on the chain and connectors.
Need parts or fitment help for your bike? Our support team rides in this stuff too. Email support@tbelectricmoto.com.

