Your hands and feet are the only things connecting you to the bike, and the cockpit is the part you touch on every ride. Bars, bar mount, grips, levers, throttle and switches are cheap compared to power mods, and they change how an e-moto feels more than most riders expect. Here's how we'd approach it on an E-Ride Pro, Sur-Ron, Talaria or 79Bike.
Handlebars: rise, bend and clamp size
Most stock e-moto bars are low and fairly flexy. Taller riders especially feel cramped when standing. When you pick a bar, look at three things:
- Rise: more rise means a more natural standing position. It's the biggest comfort change for riders around 5'10" and up.
- Width: wider bars give leverage in rough terrain; narrower bars are easier in tight trees. Most MX bars can be trimmed, so cut gradually and test before you go further.
- Clamp diameter: 7/8" (22.2Â mm), 1-1/8" (28.6Â mm) "fat" bars and 31.8Â mm bars all need a matching bar mount or clamp. This is the most common ordering mistake.
Popular options we carry:
- Warp 9 Tapped Handlebars (1.5" or 3" rise, 31.8Â mm clamp)
- ODI Podium Flight Handlebars (1-1/8")
- Renthal FatBar Lite
- Prickly 50Â mm Rise Handlebar (31.8Â mm)
- Rippin Moto RISE3 E-Moto Handlebars
Bar mounts and stems
The bar mount sets your bar height and clamp size. A direct-mount stem lets you run fat or 31.8Â mm bars and adds rise. Options include the TB Heavy Duty Direct Mount Stem, Heavy Hitter 2" Rise Direct Mount Stem, Prickly 31.8Â mm Direct Mount Stem and the Warp 9 Bar Mount. Already have a 31.8Â mm mount and want to run 1-1/8" bars? Use handlebar shims.
Tip: after any bar or stem change, turn the bars lock to lock. Make sure brake lines, throttle and switch wiring aren't stretched or pinched.
Grips
Grips are the cheapest upgrade on this list and one you feel immediately. Softer compounds cut vibration and arm pump; half-waffle patterns give a good mix of feel and cushion.
Glue non-lock-on grips with grip glue, and don't forget the throttle side.
Levers
Break-away or folding levers survive tip-overs that would snap a stock lever. Fitment depends on your brake system, so match the lever to your bike:
- Talaria Sting / Sur-Ron Light Bee: ASV F3-E Break Away Levers or Warp 9 Upgraded Brake Levers
- E-Ride Pro S / SS 1.0 / SS 2.0 / Mini: ASV F3-E Break Away Levers for E-Ride Pro 1.0/2.0/Mini
- E-Ride Pro SS 3.0 / SR, Talaria MX5 and Altis Sigma: see the Warp 9 Folding Brake Levers (check the brake type on the product page)
Throttle
A smoother throttle makes power easier to control at low speed, which matters on technical trails. Riders upgrade with a Hirschmann E-Moto Throttle or FX Upgraded Throttle. Talaria owners: if you raise your bars or bar mount, the throttle cable can get pulled and unplug itself (error code 37). The Warp 9 Talaria Throttle Extension adds 3" of cable and fixes it. Confirm plug compatibility with your controller before ordering.
Switches and kill switch
Stock switch pods can be bulky or awkwardly placed. Plug-in options let you clean up the bars and put buttons where your thumb actually is:
- Project 9 Talaria Sting Tail Light and Headlight Switch (MX4/MX5; controls the tail light and underglow)
- Project 9 E-Ride Pro Tail Light and Headlight Switch
- Project 9 Sur-Ron Light Bee Sport and Eco Mode Switch
- Warp 9 Headlight Button
- Magnetic Kill Switch: a tether kill switch is cheap insurance, especially for newer riders.
Protect it all: hand guards
Once you've built a cockpit you like, protect it. Warp 9 E-Moto Hand Guards or Acerbis X-Ultimate Handguards save levers and knuckles.
A simple order to do it in
- Grips and levers (cheap, immediate difference)
- Bar mount and bars (fit and comfort)
- Throttle and switches (fine control)
- Hand guards (protect the investment)
Not sure what fits your model and year? Email support@tbelectricmoto.com and we'll confirm before you order. Browse everything in the cockpit and handlebar collection.
